The small arc that was made was quite impressive. I would have the socket head bolts bolted down acting as work stops. The longest section is the top rail that starts at the rear wheel and makes an arc over the pilot, continuing until the front of the body.
So, how does one go about bending angle iron? That thin angle will eat your lunch if you do not have it supported very good.
Building a VeloMobile - Page 6 of 13
The taping job isn't perfect, but it will be close enough, and I will cut an extra 2 inches of angle iron just to play it safe. Much quicker clamping systems could be set up but for 50 pcs it will not take to terribly long or cost a lot in setup.
That wasn't too bad at all. If you hade then there would be more time invested into the setup to make it run efficiently.
And, once the side rails have been bent to shape, I will weld them together to form the side profile and then use them to draw the final shape onto the wood panels so that they are a perfect fit. To calculate how long this section needs to be, I have to measure along the lines made on the full sized template.
Of course, it will be easy to make adjustments and just fill the gaps with the welder as well. The rope is taped to the side panel template, along the top rail section.
My design includes nice curves in the side profile, but also requires a gradual curve from the rear where the body is wider up to the front where it is most narrow. Too many slots per foot is not so much of a problem as I can just back off the curve and fill the gaps with weld metal.
This may sound like a lot of work, but it isn't since the welding and grinding will happen on a flat surface, so it won't take much effort or time to get slots filled again. Of course you do not need to remove any clamps or bolts,just loosen them up and slide the piece out and slide another in, tighten bolts and cycle start.
It will still take some "guestimation", but I could already see that the section cut at 5 slots per foot was about right for the curvature at the rear of the body. Both segments can now be used as a guide when working out the number of slots per inch needed to form the side sections of the framework.
If it were mine I would spend about an hour on a jig for these. It looks easy and it is if you have a good setup.
The length angle iron with slots 11 slots per foot bent into a very nice curve. The other length of angle iron with the slots placed every 2 inches apart made a nice gradual curve that looked just about right for the curvature needed at the rear of the body.
You need a sacrificial piece of metal, big enough to allow you to drill and tap for socket head bolts to use as a fence as well as clamp holes for clamping angle to fixture plus enough to have some thru holes to bolt it to your table. I can see this system being used to make fenders and other curved shapes in later projects. I mean, it is basically an open sided square tube, so you certainly can't use a pipe bender on it.
Features, gallery updates, events and more. This will help me come up with some basic formula to help determine the cut spacing for a given curve. The rope method will then be used to determine the length of the bottom rail and the rear wheel wells so I can cut all of the angle iron needed to make both sides, which will be 6 lengths in total.
This method also offers the advantage of being able to make curves in two directions dual axis.
In fact, it actually looked round, rather than segmented. Many of our informative tutorials have videos, too.
I cut two 12 inch test sections from the angle iron and marked them to one inch and two inch points. No problem, this system works both ways, and now I know that about 10 slots per foot will work nicely for making the wheel well sections. There was a bit more of a segmented look on this curve, but at a short distance, it still appeared to be round, so this process was a total success.